Nema stepper motors have m3 holes at a distance of 31 mm. This is my first instrucable and it will not be a guide for creating this exact printer.
I will give enough details to create such a printer. All information used to build this printer comes from the internet. The temperature of the heat bed can reach 110 degrees celcius. And the temperature of the printhead starts with 170 degrees celcius.Last reason is the software used to control the printer. The length of the rods depends of the size of the printer you are building. It’s cheaper to buy pieces of 100cm than the default prusa i3 pieces. The 1/4 stud is solved by an adjustable smooth roth connection (second image). Use 4 handle bricks for placing the smooth rods (third image). The rods are 50 cm each and are attached with loom bands (last 2 pictures).
Take a look at this giant 3D printed technic LEGO build!
LEGO Kit 1972, 98 pieces, Approximately 168 Hour print time. My STL …
The bearing holder at the other side is adjustable. Use loom bands to tighten the toothed belt at the bearing side (4th image). At these websites are some examples of a wooden frame and an acrylic frame . This isn’t the middle of the base because of the extruder dimensions. Build 3 plates high and use m3 x 15 mm bolts. The 5 mm threaded rods (50 cm each) are attached to the stepper motors (5th image). Start with building the right side, then build the left side with the stepper motor. Connect both sides without blocking the extruder-carriage bearings. The bearings are placed between 2 new type technical connectors (gives 8mm distance, 3th image). The difference is the 2 long technical bricks for attaching the motor (8th image). These are placed between 4 long technical pins . The fourth image shows the actual built without extruder. The last 3 images show details of the extruder-carriage. Use tie wraps to attach the bearings (5th image). They will prevent the printer from trying to move out of its own frame. End stops are also used by the printer as a reference (home) position. Before printing, each axis is moved in a specific direction until it reaches an end stop. When using optical endstops make sure the flag don’t move while printing. The number of steps-per-revolution can be increased by microstepping. The drv8825 can give a microstepping up to 32. The minimum number of endstops is 3, one for each axis. After uploading it should be possible to print. My first print had some problems with the amount of filament but everything worked. Now it’s time to measure and calculate if all settings are right.
Before printing we need to set the temperature of the extruder and the heat bed. When the printer turns on the heat bed the current flows through a resistor and the temperature rises. Now the printer turns off the power of the heat bed. Because there are some delays, in reaching the temperature and switching off, the temperature will exceed the set temperature. Always start with a cold heat bed/extruder. Do the math, and calculate these values for your own printer. First thought was halving the value, maybe the stepper multiplier wasn’t 1/32th but 1/16th. Finally, with a settings of 191 steps/mm, the printer gave the correct amount of 100 mm filament. This resulted in using 100 mm filament (this took 10 minutes).
I increased the feed rate until the extruder couldn’t handle 100 mm filament.
We need to alter the software settings before printing.
Lego 3d Printer Kit
This resulted in feeding the wrong amount of filament and a too large layer height. By ensuring that all axes move smoothly, no steps are skipped by the stepper motors. This was one of the problems during the first print.
I will record further improvements and update this instructable when the results are improving. The last picture (left) shows the first layers with a honeycomb structure. Halving the low level will double the processing time, but gave an usable brick.
I replaced the lego wheel at the end of this belt with a real ball bearing. This improved the print quality of my next print.
LEGOMakerBot 3D Printer By Will
Resulting in a oval bal instead of a round bal. This is probably the reason why most printers have an additional fan near the nozze. Made some modifications after downloading the stl-file. Here we clearly see (at the top) the skipping steps of the stepper motor. Between these two prints all bearings were replaced. One of the problems encountered during building was connecting the z axis to the 5mm threaded rod. This is solved by buying several items at the hardware store.
I ended with a “metal hollow wall plug” (image). It should be possible to use these in stead of the large metal plugs. The red 1 x 8 technic brick (last image) is connected to the coupling and can be moved by a 5 mm threaded rod.
I started this 5 years ago but never had the money to finish it.I were huge fans of legos when we were young and now have boxes of them collecting dust in our basement. This project would finally put a use to those, and there’s definitely enough legos for at least twenty printers. Check out the video on the right, it’s great!
What materials can you print on with this?
Metal should be possible with copperfill filament.
D Printed Human Scale Working Lego Parrot
The iconic LEGO Parrot upscaled and 3D printed to human scale and fitted with working electronics.
I have made the 3D printable …